This may end up being one of my favorite posts so far.
I grew up with both of my grandmothers tending big, beautiful gardens. My childhood summers were spent eating my weight in radishes, snapping beans, shucking corn, and listening for that hollow sound when you tapped a melon, watching for the perfect yellow spot underneath. At their tables, food was always fresh and simple — and we knew exactly how much work had gone into it.
They both loved to cook, and I was always right there beside them, eager to learn and soaking up as much as I could. So much of who I am today traces back to their slow, intentional, traditional way of living. They gave me my first love of plants and food, and I will always be grateful for the example they set.
I finally have my planting schedule written out for the year and thought it could be helpful to share it here. I’ve been gardening for about eight years now, and I still find myself tweaking and fine-tuning what works best where I live. That’s half the fun of it — I’m always learning something new!
Seed Starting Schedule (Indoors)
| Crop | When I Start Indoors | Notes |
| Tomatoes | 6-8weeks before last frost | Transplant after danger of frost |
| Peppers | 8-10 weeks before last frost | Slow growers, like warm soil |
| Celery | 10-12 weeks before last frost | Tiny seeds, surface sow |
| Cabbage | 6-8 weeks before last frost | Can handle cool temps |
| Onions (from seed) | 10-12 weeks before last frost | Can go out early |
| Parsley | 8-10 weeks before last frost | Slow to germinate |
| Dill | 4-6 weeks before frost OR direct sow | Often better direct sown |
| Cilantro | Usually direct sow | Bolts fast in heat |
I don’t use heat mats, but I do use humidity domes until germination. Once they’re up, lights stay close and a fan runs daily to keep the stems strong.
Cool Season Crops (Early Spring-Direct Sow)
| Crop | When I Plant |
| Radishes | 4-6 weeks before last frost |
| Carrots | 3-4 weeks before last frost |
| Beets | 3-4 weeks before last frost |
| Lettuce | 4 weeks before last frost |
| Peas | 4-6 weeks before last frost |
| Cabbage | 4 weeks before last frost |
| Onions (sets) | 4 weeks before last frost |
| Shallots | 4 weeks before last frost |
These crops prefer cool soil and actually struggle once summer hits. Spring is fleeting here — June heat comes in fast and furious. I’m starting things a little earlier than usual this year to see if I can stretch the season a bit, especially with what feels like an early, warm spring.
Warm Season Crops (After Last Frost)
| Crop | Planting Method |
| Bush Beans | Direct sow |
| Cucumbers | Direct sow |
| Tomatoes | Transplant |
| Peppers | Transplant |
| Zucchini | Direct sow |
| Watermelon | Direct sow |
| Celery | Transplant |
| Potatoes | Plant seed potatoes 2-3 weeks before last frost |
| Sweet Potatoes | Plant slips after soil is warm |
I usually plant all warm weather crops out the first weekend of May. I might try a week or two earlier this year, we’ll see how the weather looks closer to time. This is my first year trying my hand at potatoes, so I’ll be sure to share how they turn out.
Herbs
| Herb | Method |
| Oregano | Transplant |
| Thyme | Transplant |
| Rosemary | Transplant |
| Basil | Transplant |
| Dill | Transplant or direct sow |
| Cilantro | Direct sow succession |
| Sage | Transplant |
| Chives | Transplant |
| Parsley | Transplant or direct sow |
Most of my herbs I buy as starts from the greenhouse. I’m trying dill and cilantro from seed this year — but will be direct sowing some too. We’ll see how it goes!
Flowers
| Flower | When to Sow |
| Calendula | Late March-Early April |
| Sweet Alyssum | Early April |
| Marigolds | Late April-Early May |
| Milkweed | March (early, needs chill) |
I love tucking flowers throughout the garden. They help deter pests, hold the soil, and provide food for countless pollinators. Plus they bring a variety of colors that bring me so much joy!
I got a variety of milkweed seeds this year and am eager to try them out for the first time. Milkweed isn’t just another flower — it’s a host plant. Monarch butterflies lay their eggs exclusively on milkweed, and the caterpillars rely on it as their only food source. Without milkweed, there are no monarchs.
Most native varieties need a period of cold (called stratification) to germinate, which is why early spring or even winter sowing works best. It’s a perennial, meaning once it’s established, it will come back year after year, and it can spread. Plant it somewhere you’re willing to let it naturalize a bit — like along a fence line or edge — and let it do its thing.
Gardening always keeps me humble. Every year teaches me something different about the soil, my climate, and my patience. This schedule is what works best in my yard — shaped by past seasons, trial and error, and the influence of two women who showed me what it means to grow and cook with intention. If you’re planting this spring too, I hope this gives you a starting point — and maybe a little nudge to try something new!
Until next time, I’ll be between the coop and the kitchen.